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Surf Is Where You Find It: The Wisdom of Waves, Any Time, Anywhere, Any Way

by Gerry Lopez

A surfer’s life told through its people and places

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AlbakiReads Editorial

A surfer’s life told through its people and places

Across 38 stories and hundreds of photographs, Gerry Lopez looks back on a life shaped by surfing and the people he encountered along the way. The collection ranges from his childhood in 1950s and ’60s Hawaii to early days at Pipeline and journeys to Uluwatu and G-Land in Indonesia. Harrowing waves and wipeouts share space with tributes to figures who helped shape surfing. First published in 2008, this redesigned edition adds new photographs, framing the stories as both personal memories and a record of surf eras gone by.

Good fit for readers who enjoy

  • Surfers interested in the history and culture of the sport
  • Readers who enjoy personal stories about travel, place, and people
  • Fans of Gerry Lopez or surfing photography

Themes

Surfing history and cultureMemory and personal experienceCommunity and mentorshipTravel and place

Based on publisher information and book metadata.

Book overview

The saying goes, "The second best thing about surfing is talking about it afterward."

Gerry Lopez, one of the most revered surfers of all time brings readers into the intimately personal sport with Surf Is Where You Find It, a collection of stories that recount harrowing waves, epic wipeouts, and heroes encountered over a lifetime on the water.

From growing up in Hawaii in the '50s and '60s, to finding the tube in the early days at Pipeline, to pioneering legendary spots like Uluwatu and G-Land in Indonesia, Lopez has traveled for surf the world over. But for him, the people stood out the most. Originally published in 2008, Surf Is Where You Find It preserves memories of surf eras gone by, and commemorates those who helped shape the surfing world today.

Now, ten years and more than 50,000 copies later, Patagonia is once again re-launching the surfing classic in a fully redesigned edition with new photos. Timed to correspond with the release of a new documentary, The Yin and Yang of Gerry Lopez about Gerry produced by equally legendary surfer and skateboarder Stacy Peralta, these 38 stories and hundreds of photos offer more of Gerry than ever before. In these pages, Gerry pays homage to those who shaped surfing today -- surfing any time, anywhere, and in any way.

Includes forewords by Rob Machado and The Surfer's Journal founder Steve Pezman.

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