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Ruin Their Crops on the Ground: The Politics of Food in the United States, from the Trail of Tears to School Lunch

by Andrea Freeman

Food policy as a tool of power

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Awards & Recognition

  • Award recognition

    Winner of the Los Angeles Times Book Prize in History

    Winner in History

AlbakiReads Editorial

Food policy as a tool of power

Andrea Freeman traces how food has figured in U.S. law and politics, from the destruction of Indigenous crops and restrictions on enslaved people’s diets to school lunch programs and food supplied to Native reservations. The book connects these episodes across periods of U.S. history, examining how government policy and industry practices have shaped access to food and contributed to racial and social inequality. Its scope also includes immigrant food culture, frybread, government cheese, and milk as a symbol of white supremacy. The throughline is a history of food not only as sustenance, but as a means through which political power and inequality have been exercised.

Good fit for readers who enjoy

  • Readers interested in U.S. history through the lens of food and public policy.
  • Readers studying race, inequality, Indigenous history, or food systems.
  • Readers interested in how government and industry have shaped diets and health disparities.

Themes

Food and political powerU.S. food law and policyRace and social inequalityColonization and Indigenous food historyFood industry and health disparities

Based on publisher information and book metadata.

Book overview

Winner of the Los Angeles Times Book Prize in History
Winner of the James Beard Media Award in Food Issues and Advocacy

The first and definitive history of the use of food in United States law and politics as a weapon of conquest and control, a Fast Food Nation for the Black Lives Matter era

In 1779, to subjugate Indigenous nations, George Washington ordered his troops to "ruin their crops now in the ground and prevent their planting more." Destroying harvests is just one way that the United States has used food as a political tool. Trying to prevent enslaved people from rising up, enslavers restricted their consumption, providing only enough to fuel labor. Since the Great Depression, school lunches have served as dumping grounds for unwanted agricultural surpluses.

From frybread to government cheese, Ruin Their Crops on the Ground draws on over fifteen years of research to argue that U.S. food law and policy have created and maintained racial and social inequality. In an epic, sweeping account, Andrea Freeman, who pioneered the term "food oppression," moves from colonization to slavery to the Americanization of immigrant food culture, to the commodities supplied to Native reservations, to milk as a symbol of white supremacy. She traces the long-standing alliance between the government and food industries that have produced gaping racial health disparities, and she shows how these practices continue to this day, through the marketing of unhealthy goods that target marginalized communities, causing diabetes, high blood pressure, and premature death.

Ruin Their Crops on the Ground is a groundbreaking addition to the history and politics of food. It will permanently upend the notion that we freely and equally choose what we put on our plates.

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