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Portal: San Francisco's Ferry Building and the Reinvention of American Cities

by John King

A waterfront landmark as a lens on urban change

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Paperback New English

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Awards & Recognition

  • Editorial selection

    A New York Times Book Review Editors' Choice

    Editors' Choice selection

  • Critical praise

    Praised by architecture critic Inga Saffron

    Praise: “A window to the soul of a great city.”

AlbakiReads Editorial

A waterfront landmark as a lens on urban change

John King uses San Francisco’s Ferry Building to trace 125 years of changing relationships between a city, its waterfront, and the infrastructure linking them. The account moves from the building’s 1898 opening through the disruption caused by automobiles, freeways, and redevelopment, to efforts to reconnect the city with the bay after the Embarcadero Freeway was destroyed by an earthquake. Along the way, the building’s history opens onto wider questions about historic neighborhoods, working dockyards, public space, tourism, and development. The present-day esplanade and the threats posed by sea-level rise and earthquakes bring the story into the current life of this landmark.

Good fit for readers who enjoy

  • People interested in San Francisco’s history and waterfront
  • Readers curious about architecture, landmarks, and urban planning
  • City visitors and pedestrians interested in public spaces

Themes

Urban infrastructure and public spaceWaterfront renewalHistoric preservationDevelopment and urban planning

Based on publisher information and book metadata.

Book overview

Conceived in the Gilded Age, the Ferry Building opened in 1898 as San Francisco's portal to the world--the terminus of the transcontinental railway and a showcase of civic ambition. In silent films and World's Fair postcards, nothing said "San Francisco" more than its soaring clocktower.

But as acclaimed architectural critic John King recounts in Portal, the rise of the automobile and double-deck freeways severed the city from its beloved structure and its waterfront--a connection that required generations to restore.

King's narrative spans the rise and fall and rebirth of the Ferry Building. Rich with feats of engineering and civic imagination, his story introduces colorful figures who fought to preserve the Ferry Building's character (and the city's soul)--from architect Arthur Page Brown and legendary columnist Herb Caen to poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti and Senator Dianne Feinstein.

In King's hands, the saga of the Ferry Building is a microcosm of a larger evolution along the waterfronts of cities everywhere. Portal traces the damage inflicted on historic neighborhoods and working dockyards by cars, highways, and top-down planning and "urban renewal." But when an earthquake destroyed the Embarcadero Freeway, city residents seized the chance to reclaim their connection to the bay. Transporting readers across 125 years of history, this tour de force explores the tensions impacting urban infrastructure and public spaces, among them tourism, deindustrialization, development, and globalization. Portal culminates with a rich portrait of San Francisco's vibrant esplanade today, visited by millions, even as sea level rise and earthquakes threaten a landmark that remains as vital as ever.

A book for city lovers and visitors, architecture fans and pedestrians, Portal is essential reading for anyone interested in the history of San Francisco and the future of American cities.

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