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Bare Essentials: Bras - Third Edition: Construction and Pattern Design for Lingerie Design

by Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks

A staged guide to bra construction and pattern design

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AlbakiReads Editorial

A staged guide to bra construction and pattern design

Organized from foundational techniques to advanced drafting, this manual moves from sewing a bra with an included pattern to adapting designs and drafting from measurements. Its intermediate material covers nursing, mastectomy, padded, and demi bras; later chapters introduce the Porcelynne method, using five measurements and a wire to develop a band and cup, then build custom designs from a sloper. The book also addresses grading by cup and wire size, with both hand-drafting and computer-drafting instructions. Together, these sections connect practical construction with the measurement-based work behind custom lingerie patterns.

Good fit for readers who enjoy

  • Beginners seeking an introduction to bra sewing and construction.
  • Lingerie designers or makers wanting guidance on pattern manipulation and custom drafting.
  • Readers interested in grading bra patterns by cup and wire size.

Themes

Bra constructionLingerie pattern draftingMeasurement-based designPattern grading

Based on publisher information and book metadata.

Book overview

The third edition of this book introduces the Porcelynne Pattern Drafting and Manipulation Method. This method is a mathematical approach to determining measurements for drafting a custom bra. Jennifer Fairbanks approaches pattern manipulation and design unlike previous methods. Developing the methods used in this book was not only challenging, but it was also thorough. This third edition of Bare Essentials: Bras introduces drafting for torso shape and height.The Bare Essentials series is an invaluable resource for anyone entering into the field of lingerie design and intimate apparel. This volume summarizes the basics of bra design, from sewing and construction to drafting and pattern grading; introducing these subjects in a manageable capacity.Bare Essentials: Bras is organized into three main sections based on the complexities of the information provided, each section introduces more complicated drafting methods.The first section of this book teaches how to construct a bra utilizing a pattern that is included in the back of the book. There are also simple pattern changes introduced in this section, including changing the elastic width, construction methods and general fitting changes.The intermediate section of Bare Essentials: Bras explains more complicated drafting manipulations including creating a nursing bra, mastectomy bras, padded and demi cut bras.The advanced section of this book, introduces the Porcelynne Pattern Drafting method to create a band, then a cup based on 5 measurements and the wire. The draft creates a simple 3-piece cup to determine the volume required for a cup. The sloper creation chapter takes this 3-piece cup and redefines how to create custom designs based on this 3-piece cup sloper. The advanced section concludes with grading instructions for both hand drafting and computer drafting. This book is thorough in grading for both cup size and wire size. Patterns for this book can be downloaded at Porcelynne.com. They are located as an option for the book. These are the basics that you will learn: - Construction methods using elastics and stretch fabrics- Manipulation of basic patterns- Pattern drafting from measurements- Sloper creation and complex pattern manipulation- Developing grade rules and grading patterns
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