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Twisted: The Tangled History of Black Hair Culture

by Emma Dabiri

Black hair as history, identity, and politics

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Paperback New English

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Awards & Recognition

  • Editorial selection

    A Kirkus Best Book of the Year

    Named a Kirkus Best Book of the Year.

AlbakiReads Editorial

Black hair as history, identity, and politics

Emma Dabiri brings personal experience into a broader cultural history of Black hair, tracing its meanings from pre-colonial Africa and the Harlem Renaissance to the contemporary Natural Hair Movement. The book connects hair texture and styling with racial stigma, appropriation, and discrimination, while also considering body politics, pop culture, and women’s solidarity. Dabiri’s account of her own movement from insecurity toward acceptance gives the historical inquiry a personal thread, linking individual experience to the social meanings attached to Black hair.

Good fit for readers who enjoy

  • Readers interested in Black history and cultural studies
  • Readers exploring race, body politics, and beauty standards
  • Readers interested in personal narratives alongside social and historical inquiry

Themes

Black hair historyRace and discriminationIdentity and body politicsCultural appropriationSelf-acceptance and solidarity

Based on publisher information and book metadata.

Book overview

A Kirkus Best Book of the Year

Stamped from the Beginning meets You Can't Touch My Hair in this timely and resonant social justice essay collection from Guardian contributor and prominent BBC race correspondent Emma Dabiri, exploring the ways in which black hair has been appropriated and stigmatized throughout history, with ruminations on body politics, race, pop culture, and Dabiri's own journey to loving her hair.

Emma Dabiri can tell you the first time she chemically straightened her hair. She can describe the smell, the atmosphere of the salon, and her mix of emotions when she saw her normally kinky tresses fall down her shoulders. For as long as Emma can remember, her hair has been a source of insecurity, shame, and--from strangers and family alike--discrimination. And she is not alone.

Despite increasingly liberal world views, black hair continues to be erased, appropriated, and stigmatized to the point of taboo. Through her personal and historical journey, Dabiri gleans insights into the way systemic racism is coded in society's perception of black hair--and how it is often used as an avenue for discrimination. Dabiri takes us from pre-colonial Africa, through the Harlem Renaissance, and into today's Natural Hair Movement, exploring everything from women's solidarity and friendship, to the criminalization of dreadlocks, to the dubious provenance of Kim Kardashian's braids and the complexities of cultural appropriation.

Through the lens of hair texture, Dabiri leads us on a historical and cultural investigation of the global history of racism--and her own personal journey of self-love and finally, acceptance.

Deeply researched and powerfully resonant, Twisted proves that far from being only hair, black hairstyling culture can be understood as an allegory for black oppression and, ultimately, liberation.

 

This landmark cultural investigation connects the personal and the political, exploring the rich, complex history of Black hair.

  • Black Hair History: Uncover the rich history of Black hairstyling, from its origins in pre-colonial Africa to the vibrant expressions of the Harlem Renaissance and beyond.
  • Body Politics and Identity: Examine how hair texture is used to police Black bodies, and how Dabiri's personal journey from shame to acceptance becomes a powerful act of resistance.
  • The Natural Hair Movement: Go inside the modern movement that challenges Eurocentric beauty standards and redefines the relationship millions of Black women have with their hair.
  • A Feminist Perspective: Delve into themes of women's solidarity, pop culture, and the ways in which hairstyling can be a profound allegory for both oppression and ultimate liberation.
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