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Dress Code: Unlocking Fashion from the New Look to Millennial Pink

by V Hyland

Fashion as a language of power, identity, and belonging

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Paperback New English

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Awards & Recognition

  • Editorial selection

    An Esquire Best Nonfiction Book of 2022

    Named an Esquire Best Nonfiction Book of 2022.

AlbakiReads Editorial

Fashion as a language of power, identity, and belonging

Véronique Hyland’s essay collection treats clothing as more than personal taste or couture: it examines dress as a visible record of class, gender, sexuality, politics, and social affiliation. The book moves between fashion history and contemporary questions, considering enduring ideals such as the “French girl,” expectations around women’s self-presentation and political dress, gender-differentiated clothing, and the pressures social media places on personal style. Alongside these topics, Hyland scrutinizes fashion-industry institutions and the assumption that fashion is inherently superficial. Jeans and a T-shirt, the book suggests, communicate within the same broad system of social signals as more conspicuous fashion choices.

Good fit for readers who enjoy

  • Readers interested in fashion criticism and cultural history
  • People exploring clothing’s connections to gender, class, and politics
  • Readers curious about social media, self-presentation, and contemporary style

Themes

Fashion and identityClass and social belongingGender and self-presentationFashion industry critiqueSocial media and personal style

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Book overview

A New Yorker Magazine Best Book of 2022 * An Esquire Best Nonfiction Book of 2022 * A Town & Country Must-Read Book of 2022 * A Fashionista Summer Read

"Smart, funny, and impressively thorough."--The Cut

In the spirit of works by Jia Tolentino and Anne Helen Peterson, a smart and incisive essay collection centered on the fashion industry--its history, its importance, why we wear what we wear, and why it matters--from Elle Magazine's fashion features director.

Why does fashion hold so much power over us? Most of us care about how we dress and how we present ourselves. Style offers clues about everything from class to which in-group we belong to. Bad Feminist for fashion, Dress Code takes aim at the institutions within the fashion industry while reminding us of the importance of dress and what it means for self-presentation. Everything--from societal changes to the progress (or lack thereof) of women's rights to the hidden motivations behind what we choose to wear to align ourselves with a particular social group--can be tracked through clothing.

Veronique Hyland examines thought-provoking questions such as: Why has the "French girl" persisted as our most undying archetype? What does "dressing for yourself" really mean for a woman? How should a female politician dress? Will gender-differentiated fashion go forever out of style? How has social media affected and warped our sense of self-presentation, and how are we styling ourselves expressly for it?

Not everyone participates in painting, literature, or film. But there is no "opting out" of fashion. And yet, fashion is still seen as superficial and trivial, and only the finest of couture is considered as art. Hyland argues that fashion is a key that unlocks questions of power, sexuality, and class, taps into history, and sends signals to the world around us. Clothes means something--even if you're "just" wearing jeans and a T-shirt.

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